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流利閱讀12.28 Seriously, Prada, what were you thinking? Why the fashion industry keeps bumbling into rac

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Seriously, Prada, what were you thinking? Why the fashion industry keeps bumbling into racist imagery

Seriously, Prada, what were you thinking? Why the fashion industry keeps bumbling into racist imagery
說真的,Prada,你到底在想什麼?時尚界緣何頻頻跌入種族歧視設計的泥潭

A display of expensive tchotchkes in the windows of Prada’s Soho boutique in downtown New York included one style that recalled a Golliwog, the 19th century blackface character with big round eyes and large red lips. The thing also resembled the title character from “Little Black Sambo,” a children’s book of the same era. Either way, the connotations were unequivocally racist.
Prada 位於紐約市中心 Soho 區的門店的櫥窗裡,展出了一系列昂貴的小飾品,而其中一款的造型不禁讓人想起了“黑臉布娃娃”的形象。這個來自 19 世紀的“黑臉”人物,有一雙圓圓的大眼睛和一對肥厚的紅嘴脣。它還像《小黑人桑波》裡的同名主人公——這本兒童畫冊同樣來自 19 世紀。不論如何,種族歧視的意味不言而喻。

After complaints from the public, the Prada Group issued an apology, dismantled the display and announced that it would pull the offending $550 charm from circulation. “They are imaginary creatures not intended to have any reference to the real world and certainly not blackface. Prada Group never had the intention of offending anyone and we abhor all forms of racism and racist imagery,” the company said in a statement.
遭到公眾聲討後,Prada 集團發出了一封道歉信,拆除了事發的展櫃,並宣佈它將會下架這款引起公憤的、標價 550 美元的掛件。該公司在一份宣告中說:“這些形象純屬虛構,沒有意圖和現實世界產生任何聯絡,更遑論‘黑臉’。Prada 集團從來沒有意圖冒犯任何人,我們對一切形式的種族主義和歧視性藝術形象深惡痛絕。”

Fashion companies are fluent in the language of marketing. Designers are savants of the visual arts. But both often lack the ability to see beyond the surface—beyond the sales pitch and the color palette—to get at the complex humanity of people. They continue to see everything from their own singular point-of-view. To some degree, that is their job. They digest a bounty of inspiration. And they create something personal and proprietary.
時尚大牌通曉市場營銷的語言,而設計師們深諳視覺藝術的門道。但兩者往往都缺乏一種穿透事物表象的能力,無法觸及廣告文案和調色盤之外,那紛繁複雜的人性。他們仍然在用自己單一的視角觀察世界。在某種程度上,這是他們工作的本質。他們要吸收大量的靈感,從而創造出同時具有個人風格和品牌印記的作品。

That’s an explanation, however, not an excuse. Globalism demands allowing more voices—more diverse voices—into the creative process and into the decision-making equation.
這是一種解釋,卻不是開脫的理由。一個全球化發展的品牌,需要讓更多的聲音——更多元化的聲音——參與到創意的過程和決策的權衡之中。

—————文章來源 / 華盛頓郵報


重點詞彙
tchotchke/ˈtʃɑːtʃkə/
n.(美式俚語)小玩意兒,小裝飾物

boutique/buːˈtiːk/
n. 小型時裝店;精品店

recall/rɪˈkɔːl/
v. 使人想起

  • This painting recalls Picasso.

Golliwog/ˈɡɑːliwɑːɡ/
n. 黑臉布娃娃

blackface/ˈblækfeɪs/
n.(假扮黑人用的)黑臉妝容

resemble/rɪˈzembl/
v. 像,類似於

  • It has/bears a resemblance to Little Black Sambo. (n.)

connotation/ˌkɑːnəˈteɪʃn/
n. 隱含意義,聯想意義

unequivocally/ˌʌnɪˈkwɪvəkəli/
adv. 毫不含糊地,清清楚楚地

dismantle/dɪsˈmæntl/
v. 拆除

pull … from circulation

  • 停止流通;下架

offending/əˈfendɪŋ/
adj. 令人不悅的;造成問題的

  • an offensive remark (adj.)
  • The offending motorist will incur a penalty of 6 points.

charm/tʃɑːrm/
n. 小裝飾物,小掛件

reference/ˈrefrəns/
n. 關係,聯絡

  • Any reference to real life is purely coincidental.

abhor/əbˈhɔːr/
v. 憎惡

savant/sæˈvɑːnt/
n. 專家

get at
觸及

humanity/hjuːˈmænəti/
n. 人性

digest/dɪˈdʒest, daɪˈdʒest/
v. 消化;理解,吸收

a bounty of
大量的…

  • Fall is a time to collect nature’s bounty.

proprietary/prəˈpraɪəteri/
adj. 專賣的

  • The Lightning port is Apple’s proprietary feature.

diverse/daɪˈvɜːrs/
adj. 多元化的

equation/ɪˈkweɪʒn/
n. 等式,方程;(多種因素的)平衡

  • solving the equation
  • take sth. into the equation